It's hard not to feel a little sorry for Tolo, an attractive but hidden eatery just a skip from Setagaya-Daita Station. It's the kind of bespoke café that would do extremely well on a backstreet in ...

This Jiro offshoot by Shin-Daita Station underwent a full-scale revolution in spring 2014, getting a new owner, switching to extra-thick noodles that look like udon at first glance, and adding an ...