Lieutenant Columbo, played with average Joe charm and unshowy, easy-to-miss dexterity by Peter Falk, is more than meets the eye — to the bad guys, not us, because we know how things will turn out.

From anthology to stage-play, movie to pilot, Columbo took the long road to becoming an icon. “We’re showing this installment of the ‘Chevy Mystery Show,’ not for what it is, but (as) … the ...